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The Gods that created Japan and the Ise Shrine

Thousands of years ago…

The Universe was formed by silence, darkness and a huge mass of formless matter. Particles within that huge mass started to move and collide with each other creating the first sounds ever heard. The movement of the mass gave place to clouds and the sky, where suddenly the three gods of Japanese mythology appeared. Under the sky a big sphere was formed by still chaotic particles; the gods decided to call it “Earth”. Several thousand years and several generations of gods passed until Goddess Izanami and God Izanagi were born; they were the creators of Japan.

Izanami and Izanagi received orders to put order on Earth. They accepted the responsibility and obtained a holy spear called Amenonuhoko (天沼矛, heavenly jeweled spear) that would help them with their mission. They traveled together through the sky until they arrived to a floating bridge near the Earth. They leaned out and stirred the water of the sea with the tip of the spear Amenonuhoko, when they took out the spear from the water, the drops of salty water that were left on the tip condensed creating the first island of Japan: Awajishima (淡路島). Using the same spear they continued creating islands giving place to Honshu, Shikoku, Kyushu and the rest of Japanese islands. They also created forests, mountains and rivers. Izanami and Izanagi built their house in Awajishima and got married. To finish their duties they had many children that would have to follow with the creation of Japan and would be responsible to look after it: the God of Wind, the Goddess of the Moon, the Goddess of the Sea, the God of the Forests, the God of the Mountains and Amaterasu, the Goddess of the Sun, considered the “mother” of Japan.

Ise
Izanagi and Izanami creating the first island of Japan using the spear Amenonuhoko

2722 years ago

Jimmu was born, the first Emperor of Japan and the great-grandson of Amaterasu, the Goddess of the Sun. He was the first human with the blood of the Gods. Akihito, the current Emperor of Japan is a direct descendant of Jimmu.

2025 years ago

The tenth Emperor of Japan trusted his daughter Yamatohime the mission of finding a permanent place for the worship of Amaterasu, the Goddess of the Sun. Legend has it that Yamatohime was 20 years traveling around Japan without finding an appropriate location until she heard the voice of Amaterasu while she was strolling along the side of a river that cut through the forests of Ise. Amaterasu declared to Yamatohime her desire to live there forever: next to the flow of the river, feeling the protection of the trees and contemplating the immensity of the sea. Her desire was granted and the Shintoist Shrine of Ise was built in her honor, which is nowadays considered the most important Shintoist temple in Japan.

Ise
One of the originals drafts of the Ise Shrine.

The Ise Shrine is reconstructed every 20 years using the same kind of materials (a Japanese cypress species) following the original drafts. According to Shintoism, nature continuously dies and is born non-stop, nature is impermanent, this tradition helps to maintain the freshness and purity of the place. Cyclically reconstructing temples makes them have an old, original and new feel at the same time, forever.

70 years ago

In United States, hundreds of scientists of the Manhattan Project played God trying to control the will of particles and the fundamental forces that constitute the universe. The ultimate creation of this group of “scientist-Gods” were not islands, rivers, lakes, forests and mountains; they were Little Boy and Fat Man, two atomic bombs.

Two bombs whose energy ended the lives of hundreds of thousands of people, reduced two cities to ashes and ended the imperial yearning of Japan. Indirectly they also ended the God-status of the Emperor, supposed direct descendant of Goddess Amaterasu. The Emperor Hirohito renounced his divine status when he signed the humanity declaration in front of American General Douglas MacArthur. The God-scientists of Project Manhattan and the imperial ambitions of Hirohito and his government ended the lineage of Japanese gods, Hirohito was the last God of Japan. All Japanese gods up to Hirohito gather together every October in the temple of Goddess Amaterasu, in the Ise Shrine.

July 16th 2011

Pablo, Yuko, Sara, Carlos and I arrived in our bikes to the torii door that invited us to enter into the sacred territories of Goddess Amaterasu through the Uji bridge which leads to the Ise Shrine. We walked through the forest before the eyes of the God-trees, we cooled ourselves down next the God of the River, we strolled between the artificial wood structures with columns directly emerging from a ground covered with pebbles, rising up against us and merging with the nature of its environment. At the end of our walk we were finally able to make out Amaterasu’s home when the God of Wind allowed us to see it by blowing away the white clouds that protect the Kōtai Jingū, the holiest place in Japan.

Photons that traveled from the Sun until being captured 8 minutes after by the wood of a cypress part of the structure of the Goddess of the Sun home, and then they reached the chemical components of a 120mm film when my finger pressed the shutter of my Hasselblad, capturing the “reality” of that particular moment that will be lost in time like tears in the rain but whose image was transformed in bits and will be kept for the rest of eternity.

伊勢神宮

伊勢神宮

伊勢神宮

After coming back to Tokyo, Sara wrote:

“I just came back from the holiest place in Japan where I met several gods. The river delighted me with the reflection of the sun. The stones told me where to stop. The trees showed me the path to follow. The wind allowed me to see for a second a forbidden space for humans. I talked to them, I listened to them, all surrounded by the deepest silence.”

October 2011
As every year, thousands of gods met in the Ise Shrine to deal with Gods’ matters. Akihito, the current Emperor of Japan, was also there. Like every year he has to attend the meeting, as even though he is not a God anymore, according to Japanese mythology he is a descendant of them . When the day ended many of them went to the onsen of Spirited Away to relax and enjoy a bath in the hot springs.

Year 2013
The Ise Shrine will be reconstructed according to the original drafts following the tradition that Yamatohime started when he heard Amaterasu’s voice while strolling around Ise two thousand years ago.
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Albert Einstein, one of the scientist that played God in Project Manhattan said one time:

“I want to know God’s thoughts, the rest are details.” – Albert Einstein

When we stopped for a rest next to the Ise river, I thought about Spirited Away when Haku, the God of the River, is able to remember his real name:

Haku: Thanks Chihiro. My real name is Nigihayami Kohaku Nushi.
Chihiro: ¿Nigihayami?
Haku: Nigihayami Kohaku Nushi.
Chihiro: What a beautiful name. It sounds like a God’s name.
Haku: I also remember when you fell in me when you were a child.

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JapanGuide

Keya no Daimon 芥屋の大門

During my stay in Fukuoka after the earthquake of last March, one afternoon after telecommuting, Ale and I went for a walk around Keya no Daimon 芥屋の大門. “Keya no Daimon” is a torii door located in Keya beach in a really tranquil town called Itoshima, south from Fukuoka. Our poor friend CaDs couldn’t come with us because he still had a lot of work to do.

Memories from Fukuoka

After 20 minutes in the car following the coast line, we found a parking place next to a small house in front of the sea.

Refugees in Fukuoka

On our way to the beach the canes and the sand paths reminded me of Mediterranean beaches.

Memories from Fukuoka

Memories from Fukuoka

Refugiados en Fukuoka

At the beach, protected with huge concrete wall (to prevent disasters in case of tsunamis) we found this torii door that marks the beginning of the route to get to “Keya no Daimon” (Great Door/Torii of Keya).

Memories from Fukuoka

Memories from Fukuoka

Memories from Fukuoka

The Great Door of Keya is up there in the background, sitting on the rock. To go there we had to get into a small forest with well signaled paths.

Memories from Fukuoka

Refugiados en Fukuoka

Views of the beach of Keya when we were almost arriving to our destination!

Memories from Fukuoka

And finally we arrived to Keya no Daimon, it was not as big as we thought but it’s really beautiful being all alone isolated on top of the rock.

Memories from Fukuoka

Memories from Fukuoka

On our way back we bumped into this lady drying hijiki algae. She was one of the few people, besides us, that were on the beach. Places that are not on travel guides, even though not “famous”, are usually more quiet and many times much more enjoyable.

Memories from Fukuoka

If you want to read more, Ale also wrote about our visit to Keya no Daimon in his blog.

Categories
JapanGuide Travel

Nokogiriyama – 鋸山

A couple of weeks ago, on Saturday, a group of “adventurers” decided to visit the largest Buddha statue in Japan. We set out at 7:00am from Shinagawa station on our way to Kurihama.

Nokogiriyama
On our way to Kurihama.

Nokogiriyama - B&w period

From Kurihama station we walked towards the port and around 9:30am we boarded the “Kanaya Maru”, the boat that took us to the other side of the bay in half an hour.

Nokogiriyama
Leaving the coast of Yokohama on our way to the coast of Chiba.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama - B&w period
One of the masts of Kanaya Maru.

Nokogiriyama - B&w period
At that time in the morning the bay was full of boats.

Nokogiriyama - B&w period
Group photo on board of the Kanaya Maru.

Around 10:00am we arrived to the port of a small village called Kanaya (金谷: money valley). Our instinct took us to a Chinese restaurant near the port where we recharged our energies. With a full belly we set out to go to Nokogiriyama mountain. We walked along the shoulder of the road that followed the coastline. The houses in Kanaya are cluttered in the little space that is left between the sea and the Nokogiriyama forests.

Nokogiriyama - B&w period

It’s not a very popular place for tourists, so there are not many signs. It took us a long time to find the head of the trail that had to take us to the summit.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

The hike was quite easy, the trails were clear and there were even stairs in some areas.

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

Nokogiriyama

山登り、hiking

We crossed the forest until we bumped into some mysterious rock walls.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama
Great picture taken by Ikusuki from a cliff. We are those pixels down there that don’t match with the landscape.

The walls, which looked artificial and natural at the same time; the huge trees in the forest and the continuous drizzle and some traces of human activity reminded us of the TV Show Lost.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

It turns out that it was a quarry that was active during the Edo era (until just 150 years ago); that’s the explanation for the mysterious shape of the walls. We tried to advance a little bit more but we arrived to an area without an exit, we were surrounded by rock walls and forest. We couldn’t advance any more towards Nokogoriyama’s summit.

Nokogiriyama

We traced back our steps until the last bifurcation we had passed by. We started walking the other trail which brought us through a narrow crack in the mountain. Crossing that crack we found a Buddha image engraved in one of the walls.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama - B&w period

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama

After resting some minutes in front of the Buddha we marched on towards the summit, which was only 5 minutes away.

Nokogiriyama
This cliff is called Jigoku-nozoki (Peering into hell) and is 380 meters above sea level.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama - B&w period

Nokogiriyama

If you are lucky and the weather conditions are good, you can see Mount Fuji on the horizon; in our case it was cloudy so we couldn’t spot it. However we enjoyed amazing views of Tokyo bay and the fabulous forests we just had crossed.

Now we just had to enter Nihonji temple, which is on the other side of the mountain, where you can find the biggest Buddha in Japan. Todai-ji is not the biggest one, and neither the one in Kamakura. This Buddha inside Nokogiri-yama is the biggest one. It is a representation of Yakushi Nyorai and it is 31 meters tall, more than double the size of Todai-ji in Nara.

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period
We could enjoy the visit with almost no tourists.

According to a leaflet we were given, it was built in 1783, after 3 years of hard work of 28 Buddhist monks. The Buddha statue represents “The universe inside the lotus flower world” and was built as a symbol of world peace and tranquility. I don’t know if it was how tired we were or the tranquility that Buddha transmitted us, but most of our group decided to take a small nap in front of him.

Nokogiriyama

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

We regained our forces and headed back home. We came back using another trail that allowed us to see 1500 “Tokai Arhats” (Buddha disciples) statues, each one of them has a unique face, and although a little bit scary, they are supposed to represent a “benevolence spirit”. They were sculpted by the same 28 monks that created the great statue of Buddha.

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

Nokogiriyama - Hasselblad period

A marvelous place, an unforgettable day. I can’t believe we didn’t know about this place if it is so close to Tokyo! It was my friend CaDs who suggested the day trip, he learned about the existence of Nokogiriyama because he had been using a parser library for Ruby called Nokogiri. I have the feeling that this will not be my last time climbing Nokogiriyama.